FAQ

Please consult our customer service, we will guide you how to do.

The lead time is around 7~15 days.

No, it is pot size. It gets smaller after packing, so please don’t have much  expectation on plant size. 

Normally the plants have roots, but in some cases, the roots are removed also when the workers remove the soil. 

Sure, they can. Old roots can not absorb water, so please remove old roots completely and wait for new roots to grow out. Only new roots help the plants to thrive.

Please open the box, and get out the plants immediately. Remove old roots and rotten leaves, and put them under half sunlight to wait for new roots. You can slightly spray water if the plants are too dry. Please plant them when the new roots grow out. 

Yes, please remove the rotten leaves, the plant can survive as long as the stem is healthy.

Outdoor planting times will depend on your climate. Spring and early fall are good seasons for planting in most regions, though summer planting is also possible in temperate climates. Try to plant in locations protected from extended periods of direct sun, particularly if temperatures exceed 80F. For fall planting, plant at least one month before your expected first frost date to give the plants time to establish roots.

Please note: Before planting outdoors, check the plant’s Cold Hardiness rating on its tag or on our website to see if it can tolerate winter cold in your climate. If it can’t, plant in a pot so that you can bring the plant indoors before the winter cold.

Succulents need grittier soil than other plants because they are adapted to dry conditions and store water in their leaves. Regular potting soil mixes stay moist for long periods of time, which can cause rot in succulents. Instead, use a gritty, well-draining soil so you can water thoroughly without leaving your succulent in standing water.

In Pots

• Use a cactus / succulent soil mix from a garden center, e.g. Black Gold Cactus Mix, for varieties with thin leaves that tend to like more water
• Use Bonsai Jack’s Gritty Mix for varieties like cacti, Euphorbia, and Lithops (and other mesembs) that prefer extra dry conditions
• Mix your own with one part potting soil, one part coarse sand, and one part pumice or perlite

In Gardens

• Plant in raised beds of sandy loam
• Amend heavy, clay soils with 50% coarse sand
• Use a gravel top dressing to keep leaves from touching damp soil and rotting

Succulents need deep, infrequent watering, especially during their growing season and when they are young and establishing roots. Only water when the soil is completely dry and err on the side of underwatering. Watering too frequently is the most common way to kill succulents!

How to Water Succulents

• Drench from above using a faucet, hose, or watering can
• Do not mist with a spray bottle (the only exception is for Air Plants)
• Water until it drains from the container’s drainage hole. If your container does not have a drainage hole (not recommended), use about 1/3 the volume of the container
• If possible, water the soil rather than the leaves; gently shake off any droplets left on the foliage to prevent rot
• Keep the succulent in a location with enough sunlight and airflow so that the soil can dry out before you water again

Only Water When Soil is Dry

Succulents are much more tolerant of under-watering than over-watering and an under-watered succulent is far easier to fix. You can check soil moisture by inserting your finger or a popsicle stick a couple inches into the soil. If your pot has a drainage hole, this is a great place to feel the soil to see if there is any remaining moisture. If you tend to over-water or your succulent is recovering from rot, you can wait a couple days after noticing the soil is dry to water again.

Actual Frequency Varies

• Succulents in heavy soil or areas that collect water will need less frequent water than those in gritty, well-draining soil or raised beds
• Large containers will need less frequent water than small ones
• Succulents in wet or humid climates need less frequent watering than those in hot, dry climates
• Succulents need even less frequent watering during their dormant season (winter for most varieties)
• Mature plants will need less frequent water than young succulents that are establishing roots

Though there are endless exceptions, a very general guideline is to water young succulents 1-2 times a week and mature plants 2-4 times a month, watch for watering issues, and adjust the frequency accordingly.

Diagnosing Watering Issues

Keep an eye on your plants and you will be able to see if they are they are being watered too frequently or not often enough. The leaves of over-watered succulents will soften, turn a translucent yellow or brown, and eventually fall off. The leaves of an under-watered succulent will go limp, wrinkle, turn brown and crispy, and eventually fall off. If you catch these signs early and adjust your watering frequency, most plants will be able to recover.

Symptoms of Too Much Sun

• Color: Pigments will look washed out and bleached
• Burns: Leaves eventually get blotchy burns in white, yellow, or brown
• Texture: Over-exposure is often accompanied by signs of desiccation e.g. wrinkled, scaly, or crispy leaves

Prevention

• Refer to each plant’s Recommended Light Conditions to the right of its description on our site and place accordingly
• When moving or transplanting, take a full two weeks to gradually transition plants into brighter light
• Protect from full sun when temperatures exceed 85F
• Plant outdoor succulents in locations that get afternoon shade
• Keep low-light varieties in full shade or indoors away from sunny windows

Recovery

• Move plants into lower light conditions or position shade cloth above them
• Increase watering frequency slightly and water during the coolest parts of the day
• Dark burns will not disappear, but burnt leaves will eventually fall off to be replaced with new growth

Symptoms of Too Little Light (Etiolation)

• Form: Outer leaves of rosettes turn downwards, stems stretch tall with wide gaps between leaves
• Color: Plants can revert to green or turn pale and faded

Prevention

• Refer to each plant’s Recommended Light Conditions to the right of its description on our site and place accordingly
• Cultivate hardy succulents outdoors if possible
• Keep indoor succulents that are colorful/non-green near a sunny window
• Use grow lights to supplement indoor light

Recovery

• Over the course of two weeks, gradually move the plant into sunnier conditions, watching for signs of sunburn
• Add a grow light, starting with a few hours of light each day and gradually increasing duration

Different succulent varieties have different light needs. You can find the recommended light conditions for each variety listed in our online catalog to the right of the plant’s description. We use four categories of recommended light, and some plants can thrive under a range of light conditions.

Low Indoor Light

• Can grow indoors without direct sun.
• Placing outdoors in direct sun or on sunny window sills might cause dark burns.
• There are a limited number of succulent varieties that thrive in low light, notably Haworthia, Gasteria, Peperomia, and some Jade.

Bright Indoor Light

• Can grow indoors if near a sunny window or under a grow light.
• Might show signs of stretching, fading, and greening if given too little light.
• Many soft succulents can thrive in these conditions.

Filtered / Partial Sun

• Can grow outdoors under filtered light (e.g. dappled light under a tree) or partial sun (e.g. direct sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon).
• Most succulents thrive in these conditions, but always good to watch for signs of stretching or sunburn and adjust location accordingly.

Full Sun

• Grows well outdoors with 4-12 hours of direct sun every day.
• Will stretch, fade, and revert to green if given too little sunlight.
• Most hardy succulents thrive in full sun when temperatures are below 80F. Some soft succulents like full sun, others do not.

We divide all of our succulents into two groups, “soft” and “hardy”, depending on whether or not they can tolerate freezing temperatures.

Soft Succulents

• Also known as “tender succulents”
• Can grow indoors or out as long as they are protected from freezing temperatures
• Most will keep color year-round with proper care

Hardy Succulents

• Can grow outdoors, year-round in most of the US
• Not recommended for indoor use
• Many show their best colors in spring and fall

Most types of succulents are completely harmless, but the few that are will cause temporary digestive distress if they are ingested. It’s not often that a pet or child tries to eat a succulent, but we recommend keeping them out of reach just in case.

Potentially Toxic Varieties

• Adenium
• Agave (not toxic, just spiky)
• Albuca
• Aloe vera
• Cactus (not toxic, just spiny)
• Cotyledon
• Euphorbia (sap can also irritate skin)
• Jade plants (Crassula)
• Kalanchoe
• Ledebouria
• Pachypodium
• Snake plants (Sansevieria aka Dracena)
• String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus)